THIS IS HOW A WELL-PLANNED, one-city getaway turned into a strategically coordinated three-city road trip that would form the backbone of our romantic getaway – with a spiritual twist.
Where it started
Since Athens had always been a destination on our ‘to get to’ list and was only seven hours by car from Thessaloniki it made sense to add that spot to the itinerary. A month later Meteora went on the list after hearing about the UNESCO World Heritage site from a friend who gushed about the spiritual experiences he had enjoyed there. My wife and I began our journey to celebrate our 10th wedding anniversary in Thessaloniki, a city overflowing with restaurants, shops, museums and historic landmarks. With a population of more than one million, Thessaloniki offers visitors a chance to savour outstanding food paired with some of the finest wine in Europe.
We stayed at the exquisite Makedonia Palace Hotel, an ideal spot for romance, with a pool, spa and balcony overlooking the city. Located on the Thermaic Gulf along a pedestrian walkway, Makedonia is where you will find Chef Sotiris Evangelou, a national celebrity who takes pride in creating authentic Greek dishes for his diners.
Photo: Salonika Restaurant
Photo: Salonika Restaurant
After taking a bit of solo time in the afternoon so that my wife could immerse herself in ‘retail therapy,’ it was decided that we would have dinner together at the hotel. We sipped wine on the stunning patio and tried several regional appetizers under a humid night sky. The highlight of my evening was trying new plates and watching my wife energetically devour squid, a dish that would normally cause her to recoil in horror. Seeing her go back for seconds was a testament to the culinary skills of Chef Evangelou.
While the food in Thessaloniki is fantastic, it is the wine for which the region is known. Located roughly 120 km southeast of Thessaloniki are the protected designation of origin (PDO) Slopes of Meliton and the protected geographical indication (PGI) Sithonia. These designations ensure that the wines are from these protected regions. It sits on the middle leg of the Sithonia peninsula and, true to its name, on the western slopes of Mount Meliton. It is home to Domaine Porto Carras, one of the oldest vineyards in Greece.
Where it went
After a week in Thessaloniki we rented a car and made the three-hour drive to Meteora. This was my first time driving in Europe and I have to admit feeling apprehensive about operating a vehicle on foreign soil. But my wife was very encouraging despite being uneasy herself. Once on the outskirts of the city our worries evaporated and the drive itself turned into a fantastic adventure. We coasted through winding mountain tunnels and drifted along the highway, sharing treats while listening to music.
The Varlaam monastery in Meteora, Greece. Landscape
I did not expect this phase of our trip to have room for romance but we were captivated by the remarkable landscape. I took my foot off the gas and slowed down, my left hand on the wheel and my right hand in hers. A rustic landscape with a collection of Eastern Orthodox monasteries in Thessaly built on giant rock pillars, Meteora has six remaining monasteries that visitors can access by pathways and staircases along the walls. We visited two of them during our stay – The Holy Monastery of Varlaam and the Grand Meteora, the largest of the six, which we ascended on our second day.
Seeing those steps on the Internet is not the same as looking up at them in person. Since I don’t like heights I had to channel my inner warrior before beginning the climb, while reassuring my nervous wife that there was nothing to be anxious about. Joined by crowds of people under a blistering sun, we made our way up those narrow, calorie-wrecking steps to stomach-churning heights. It wasn’t an easy climb and I wouldn’t suggest trying it during a heat wave but it was worth every cramped muscle for those views of the nearby town of Kalambaka and the other monasteries. At Grand Meteora we were able to meditate, give thanks and light candles in honour of family and friends. As strange as it may sound, the struggle to get up those steps was a sacred experience in its own way, drawing us closer as we encouraged each other to keep going.
Fittingly, on the way to the capital from Meteora, we stopped for an unplanned visit in Kamena Vourla, a vacation town with several water-side restaurants and a gorgeous beach. We parked, put on our swim gear and willed ourselves into the chilly waters of the Malian Gulf. After days of being around crowds we could enjoy this beautiful spot together, grateful for a silent moment. We bobbed and hugged, reminisced about our wedding in Toronto and shared jokes under the searing afternoon sun. After that quick stop we hit the road for Athens, where the atmosphere of the Plaka neighbourhood enthralled us. We visited the National Archaeological Museum and checked out the Acropolis of Athens.
View of Acropolis of Athens with Parthenon and Erechtheion from Filopappou hill. Photo: Constantinos Kollias
The climb to the top of the Acropolis was worth every painful stride for those views of the city and an opportunity to get close to this historic landmark. After leaving the Acropolis, we took our dehydrated bodies over to a nearby restaurant that had several outdoor fans and sat down without even looking at a menu. We were stiff but content as we shared drinks and cooled off together in the shade.
The author, Rod Charles and his wife Brenda Johnson-Charles
We did it, we did it,” was all either of us had the energy to say.
And we’re still in love…
Dining in Thessaloniki, meditating in Meteora and enjoying the archeological wonders of Athens had been part of the plan. Pushing our limits up the steps of Meteora and the Acropolis during a heat wave and stumbling onto a beach in Kamena Vourla, while unexpected, was all the more exhilarating – unplanned, spontaneous experiences that created some of the most memorable moments of our trip.
As with a relationship itself, the unexpected occurrences of joy and connection are what we most tightly hold onto – and continue to desire, even if we don’t know when the next such moment will come. visitgreece.gr
