Sitting at a ‘secret’ rum shack high on the forested hills overlooking Bequia’s Admiralty Bay, I’m dotting the local hot sauce on my fresh lobster lunch. This is the kind of place where you can call the number on the back of the bottle of Auntie Sue’s Hot Pepper Sauce, and Auntie Sue actually picks up.
And then Auntie Sue arranges to have her friend’s teenage son meet you at the end of the half-kilometre-long foot path through the rainforest – the only way to get to the Tree House Bush Bar — with a bag full of hot sauce, for $5 a pop. This is the charm of St. Vincent and the Grenadines.
Bequia is the largest island in the Grenadines (though, at 18 square kilometres, you could technically walk it in a day). Reminiscent of the 1950s West Indies, it remains relatively untouched by development. Of the Grenadines’ 32 islands and cays, only eight are inhabited, and some consider St. Vincent and the Grenadines (SVG) to be one of the last untouched corners of the Caribbean.
Sailboats anchored in the turquoise shallows off Union Island, St. Vincent and the Grenadines — where island life moves at its own pace.
“We don’t suffer from depression, we just head to the ocean,” says Quency Lewis with Foreign Tours SVG, during a tour of St. Vincent.
On the mainland, rainforests are filled with tropical birds, possums, mongooses and iguanas. Gardens bloom with lilies, birds of paradise, hibiscus and red dragons. There are 305 waterfalls on St. Vincent alone and 30 different types of mango.
St. Vincent is home to 305 breathtaking waterfalls—including Dark View Falls, a stunning pair of twin cascades framed by a bamboo bridge and lush rainforest, flowing year-round from the Richmond River into natural bathing pools. Photo courtesy of SVG
The Grenadines have long catered to visitors — from fly-in billionaires to celebs and royalty (Princess Margaret had a getaway on the exclusive island of Mustique). But St. Vincent was traditionally focused on agriculture. Bananas, in particular.
“It used to be that people would come here and go straight to the Grenadines. They didn’t spend any time here,” says Lewis. “But that’s changing.”
There are a few reasons for that. One is the Argyle International Airport (and more direct flights from Canada). While the airport isn’t exactly new — it opened in 2017 — SVG’s tourism industry was hit hard by the Covid-19 pandemic, the eruption of La Soufrière in 2021 and Hurricane Beryl in 2024, which slowed the flow of tourists.
Another reason is the opening of the mainland’s first all-inclusive resort. Sandals Saint Vincent and The Grenadines, tucked away in its own private cove, has brought more attention to the mainland as a Caribbean destination. And, according to Sandals, it’s an evolution of the brand with several ‘firsts,’ including a dining scene and off-the-resort activities that reflect the island’s landscapes and heritage.
Tucked between lush mountains and the Caribbean Sea, Sandals Saint Vincent’s Vincy Overwater Two-Story Villas perch above the crystalline waters of Buccament Bay, offering a private sanctuary that effortlessly blends with the lush rainforest and stunning ocean vistas. Photo: Sandals
On a jeep safari, ATV excursion or cycling tour with a local operator like Foreign Tours SVG, you can explore secluded waterfalls, discover hidden black-sand beaches or even hike up La Soufrière. And you won’t be doing it with thousands of other tourists.
While SVG has made great strides in recovering from 2021’s volcanic eruption, the nation suffered another gut-punch last year when Hurricane Beryl barrelled through the Grenadines. Palm Island, home to Palm Island Resort & Spa, suffered serious damage and is still closed to visitors as it rebuilds. Union Island is also rebuilding.
Mandarin Oriental Canouan’s lobby blends cool marble floors, soft cream tones, and sparkling chandeliers, with natural light and clean lines that highlight the island’s natural beauty. Photo: Mandarin Oriental
While nearby Canouan also suffered significant damage, it’s back to business as usual for some of SVG’s most opulent resorts, including the Mandarin Oriental Canouan and Soho Beach House Canouan.
Soho House has 42 houses, or private members’ clubs, around the world. To become a member you need to qualify as a ‘creative.’ But Soho Beach House Canouan is the first (and only) in the portfolio that’s open to non-members, where you can soak up the chic beach-house vibe — and still feel like you’re on a private retreat. (Be sure to arrange a private dinner on the jetty at sunset.)
Soho Beach House Canouan offers a luxe-yet-rugged escape in St. Vincent and the Grenadines, with sea turtle swims, kayaking, and a timeless Robinson Crusoe vibe. Courtesy of Soho Beach House Canouan
If you can manage to drag yourself from the beach, Canouan is surrounded by one of the Caribbean’s largest living coral reefs. It’s a quick boat ride from Canouan to Tobago Cays — home of SVG’s national marine park — with five palm-fringed cays, horseshoe-shaped coral reefs and some of the best sailing waters in the world. Here, you can snorkel with sea turtles in the 1,400-acre lagoon and then feast on grilled lobster in bare feet on the sandy cay of Petit Rameau.
While SVG is no longer a ‘secret’ Caribbean escape for fly-in billionaires, it still retains a low profile (and an exclusive one). But you can still stumble upon experiences — like buying Auntie Sue’s hot sauce — that will give you a true taste of the local culture. discoversvg.com
