THE SPIRIT OF THE PAST is alive and well at Hester Creek Estate Winery. Hester herself is one such spirit, and her story from more than 100 years ago inspired the labels on the winery’s vintages. It is said that Hester, the daughter of Judge J.C. Haynes, a rancher and judge in Osoyoos, loved to swim in the local creek. A legend – and a label was born. She appears almost mermaid-like, tickling the tail of a fish that’s nearly her size.
We’re in Oliver in the Okanagan Valley – about a two hour’s drive south from Kelowna and just 20-odd klicks from the US border – not too far down the road is Osoyoos, where Hester was born. But today, we’re creating our own stories, sipping on wines that Roger Gillespie, Hester Creek’s director of operations, and winemaker Mark Hopley have chosen for us. The winery has been in operation since 1968; in this moment, we’re savouring the wine and the fading light, as the sun sets over Oliver’s Golden Mile Bench. Golden, indeed – everything is bathed in a fair glow, the valley resplendent as the day closes.
From Italian roots to Okanagan excellence, Hester Creek began in 1968 with Joe Busnardo’s vision for world-class vines. Reimagined in 2004 by Curt Garland with a Tuscan touch, the estate now spans 88 acres under vine, where Winemaker Mark Hopley crafts wines that honour the land and shape the future of BC wine. Photo: Hester Creek Winery
The night before, our sundowners were just as splendid, as David McBean, the general manager of Watermark Beach Resort in Osoyoos, took us through the dinner menu at 15 Park Bistro, the hotel’s restaurant. McBean is also a certified sommelier and was more than happy to share his expertise. The wines of the region, he opined, are some of the best for pairing with food. He indulged my request to start with a glass of bubbles (with a side of salted popcorn), and then proceeded to take us on a journey of Okanagan and Similkameen Valley standouts.
On the shores of the serene Osoyoos Lake, Watermark Beach Resort offers an idyllic escape where poolside relaxation meets breathtaking mountain vistas. Photo: Watermark Beach Resort
With a dozen to choose from by the glass, including a sparkling and two rosés, more than two dozen whites – the 2022 Moon Curser Vineyards Viognier is a definite yes! – and about 40 reds by the bottle, including a 2016 Mission Hill Oculus blend that clocks in at $500, it could be a long night. But it was an excellent night, the journey through the wine list true to McBean’s words, a perfect pairing to executive chef Jeffery Young’s local ingredients-driven menu, all while taking in lakeside views from the outdoor terrace. It’s a weather-resistant space, so even if there’s that desert chill in the air after dark, there are plenty of guests and locals dining al fresco. Viognier, you say? Yes, the Okanagan is playing with this grape varietal. Fresh, tart, a tad fizzy on the tongue, it’s working for me.
A West Coast classic, elevated. 15 Park Bistro’s herb-rubbed Pacific Halibut rests on citrus-infused beluga lentils, braised fennel and a silky white wine butter sauce. Coastal cuisine at its finest. Photo: @15parkbistro
What’s also working is the Qwam Qwmt Pinot Noir from Nk’Mip Cellars (pronounced Inkameep) that estate manager Troy Ravndahl is pouring in my glass. Berries, black cherries and a hint of spice are giving a richness beyond its 2022 vintage. But as the first Indigenous-owned winery in North America, what’s done here goes beyond the juice in the bottle.
Nk’Mip Cellars, North America’s first Indigenous-owned winery, crafts award-winning wines from Osoyoos Indian Band vineyards, blending rich culture and stunning Indigenous art. Photo: Nk’Mip Cellars
The First Nations People of Osoyoos are part of the Okanagan Nation, and they’ve been instrumental stewards of this land for centuries. It’s not just Indigenous-owned by the Osoyoos Indian Band, says Ravndahl, but also operated by First Nations People. It’s been producing wines for almost 50 years but Justin Hall, who joined the vineyard in 2004 as a cellar hand, is the first Indigenous winemaker in North America. He’s now running the entire Nk’Mip operation – from planting to bottling – and Hall and his Band are taking the lead for Indigenous Peoples in the winemaking industry. The Patio Restaurant is open al fresco in the spring, summer and autumn, serving up lunch from chef Shawn Cheer’s seasonal menu. Perched on a hillside, it’s within view of the vines sprawling over the valley.
At the Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre, Leane Lees, events coordinator, is a member of the Syilx Band, and our guide. We venture out to hike the 1.5 kilometre trail, just a sliver of the 32,000 acres of Sonoran Desert that is the Osoyoos Indian Reserve. I see Lees is carrying a long walking stick, “for the rattle snakes,” she says. All in a day’s work.
The stunning Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre (pronounced in-ka-meep) in Osoyoos, BC, offers interactive indoor and outdoor exhibits, hands-on displays and multimedia theatres. Photo: Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre
“Do you hear the horses?” She asks. Their neighs are familiar to her ears; I’m not sure I hear it, but it excites us all nevertheless. “If we’re lucky we may see them,” she smiles, “we’ve got quite a number of wild horses that roam free on the reserve.” Lees strides down the path as the sun emerges from the clouds. The air has suddenly gone from October breezy to desert heat. The path is dry, but through sage- and antelope-brush that look thirsty for water, a series of sculptures emerge, like shadows, posed at work in the fields. It’s part of “Living Lands,” the permanent outdoor sculpture exhibit and the work of Indigenous artist Virgil “Smoker” Marchand. His massive metal sculpture, “The Chief,” welcomes visitors at the roadway entrance of the centre; at 10 feet tall, it’s breathtaking, a chief in full headdress on horseback, hands raised to the sky, holding a peace pipe in offering.
Nk’Mip Cellars is more than a winery – it’s a sanctuary where stunning Indigenous art and the natural beauty of the estate come together. Wander the grounds and discover sculptures that tell powerful stories, honouring the deep connection between the land and its rich heritage. Photo: Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre
It’s time for a side trip. We’re leaving Osoyoos for a quick drive to the Similkameen Valley that hugs the banks of the river of the same name. Jesce Baessler is waiting for us on her verandah that overlooks the vines she tends with her husband Charlie, at Corcelettes Estate Winery. She’s pouring us a glass of Phoenix Afterglow (perhaps in a nod to the area rising from the ashes after devastating fires of 2023), a rosé that’s full of berries and watermelon and just a zest of citrus flavours. The Baesslers are young and innovative, and represent the future of winemaking in Similkameen.
We can’t stay long, because lunch awaits at Row Fourteen Restaurant in the Untangled Cidery at Klippers Organic Acres – as does Klippers’ founder Annamarie Klippenstein. Almost everything on the plant-forward menu is from the farms, and even a radish crudité is a work of art. It’s not just about wine, but orchards. Klippenstein follows lunch with a cider tasting, and mixes flavours like blueberry, apple and pear with thyme, nectarine and mulberry.
Vanessa Vineyard sits high on a hillside overlooking the Similkameen Valley, with 75 acres of steep, rocky terrain that shape its distinctive grapes. Photo: Vanessa Vineyard
Winemaker Howard Soon – second-generation BC-born and the only Asian-Canadian honoured with the Order of Canada – has been recognized for his outstanding contributions to Canada’s wine industry. Photo: Vanessa Vineyard
In yet another first, we stop at Vanessa Vineyard, where master winemaker Howard Soon is holding court. For more than 40 years, Soon has been influential in winemaking (fun fact: he started in the beer industry). Soon is also the only Asian-Canadian (he’s second generation BC-born), to be awarded the Order of Canada for his contribution to Canada’s wine industry. He’s been lauded as the Winemaker of the Year by the Wine Growers of Canada and the first BC winemaker to win gold in France. But who is Vanessa? “Butterflies frequented the pastures before we planted vines,” says Soon. They still do, even with the vines. Taken from the Greek myth of Pandora, whose daughter, Phanessa, had a fascination with butterflies, Vanessa is fascinating in her own right.
Not quite mythical proportions, but as the sun set on our last day, the mountains and the valley reflected on the lake’s mirror-like surface. Magic.
