I’m winding my way on a pleasingly efficient train journey from the bustling financial center of Zurich through the splendidly rolling green foothills of the Appenzeller Alps in eastern Switzerland.
My destination is the country’s newest collection of Swiss-owned luxury boutique hotels, where the Appenzeller Huus brand is bringing quiet indulgence, bespoke wellness and heemelige (coziness) to one of the alpine nation’s most understated and less familiar regions.
THE PROPERTY
Appenzeller Huus, Gonten, Switzerland
WHEN DID IT OPEN?
The hotel collection consists of three distinctive properties. Huus Bären opened in 2015 and Huus Löwen opened in June 2023. Huus Quell opens in April 2025 as a modern hotel spa with a wellness area of over 24,000 sq ft designed by Thailand-based GOCO Hospitality.
A magical moment full of silence and beauty: Misty autumn morning in Appenzellerland, when nature wakes up in soft colors and the fog envelops the hills. Photo: @appenzeller_huus
ANY HISTORY TO THE PLACE?
Centuries of history dwell within the walls of Appenzeller Huus. Its Swiss owner, Jan Schoch, has a strong familial connection to the village of Gonten. His parents were married in the 400-year-old Hotel Baeren, the oldest building in the village. When he found out in 2012 that the property was going to be sold, Schoch and his partners purchased, renovated and reopened the 1602 timber-framed guest house as Huus Bären in 2015. Across the village’s Dorfstrasse, I enjoyed a stay at the historic Huus Löwen. This fully renovated 19th century-old house with wooden-beamed ceilings has all the necessary 21st century conveniences, its suites fitted with modern furniture covered in Appenzell-knitted wool with incredible views of the Alpstein.
WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO THIS HOTEL?
Tucked in Switzerland’s northeast, Appenzell may lack towering peaks, but its rolling hills, rich cow culture, and deep-rooted traditions make it one of Switzerland’s most authentic regions. Photo: @appenzeller_huus
I stayed at Huus Löwen and used it as my base for exploring the incomparable Appenzellerland region of eastern Switzerland. I’ve wanted to visit this small canton for decades. It’s one of the country’s most scenic and traditional regions, with some areas still conducting a public voting system by way of a show of hands in the village square (known as the Landsgemeinde). Travel writer Rick Steves noted that you can turn your clocks back 10 years when crossing the cantonal (provincial) border into Appenzell. I had to find out for myself if it was true, and though I didn’t find evidence of that, I certainly did enjoy the slower pace of life in the region.
DESIGNED FOR EVERYBODY?
The hotels are designed for adventurous solo travellers, couples on romantic weekend wellness getaways and families who can settle into stylish rooms complete with bunk beds for the littles.
LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION
Clinging to a cliff at 1,454m, Berggasthaus Aescher has welcomed hikers since 1884—just a 25-minute walk from Ebenalp. Photo: Switzerland Tourism
The hotels form a cluster in the picturesque village of Gonten (a 90-minute journey from Zurich’s bustle) in eastern Switzerland. The train station is a short walk from the hotels, opening up easy exploration of the canton’s pristine Alpstein landscape. Ebenalp, with its rustic cliffside Aescher Hut and 400-year-old Wildkirchli cave church, is less than an hour away by train. As are hikes to the jaw dropping Seealpsee alpine lake, surrounded by a crown of towering granite mountains. The summit of snowy Säntis peak, the highest mountain in the Alpstein, is accessible by aerial tramway from Schwägalp, 30 minutes via efficient SBB train from Gonten.
DINING
At Bärenstobe, history meets fine dining—Chef Carsten Kypke serves globally inspired tasting menus in a 1751 inn, Thursday to Saturday. Photo: @appenzeller_huus
Start the date off on the right note at the breakfast buffet, included in your stay. The expansive selections are served in the cosy Bärenstobe and include omelets made to order, local Appenzeller cheeses, meats and yoghurt parfaits, and of course baked goods, including slices of soft züpfe, Swiss braided egg bread. Spend après by the fireside in the Bären bar before tucking into the four-course Michelin-level gourmet dinner prepared by Chef Carsten Kypke and paired with Swiss wines in the Bärenstobe. Chef Kypke is also responsible for the menu at the jewel-box-like Jakob Schlaepfer Lounge in Huus Löwen. Both the Lounge and the dark-wood panelled Löwenstobe restaurant serve traditional and seasonal Appenzell cuisine, including vegan and vegetarian options. Try the homemade Appenzell dumplings in wild mushroom cream or the Chäshörnli, meaning ‘cheese horns,’ an upscale Swiss version of mac and cheese.
WHAT YOU LOVED
This airy rooftop suite features exposed historic beams, a chandelier, whirlpool tub, and views of the Hundwiler Höhe mountain. Photo: @appenzeller_huus
As soon as I entered my generous suite, it felt like a home away from home. This being Switzerland, every design detail is well thought out – from the choice of still or sparkling local mineral water in my room to the comfortable king-sized bed fitted with a cosy duvet and covered with an Appenzell woolen blanket. I loved the mountain view from my bathroom window, which I kept open throughout my stay to enjoy the melodic sounds of cow and church bells. The wellness area at Bären was ideal to enjoy a post-hike massage and sauna session before preparing for a four-course gourmet dinner and delectable Swiss wines at the Bärenstobe. My visit happily coincided with an evening concert at the hotel, part of the Appenzeller Forum, a cultural program in partnership with Appenzeller Huus offering piano recitals, concerts of traditional alpine music, readings and lectures on current topics.
WHAT COULD BE BETTER
Not having to cross the street from my room at Huus Löwen to access the breakfast buffet at Huus Bären. But the delicious breakfast was more than worth the short walk. I probably worked off 1/16th of a croissant.
NEED TO KNOW
- Check In: 3:00 PM; Check out 11:00 AM (12 PM at Huus Quell)
- On-site restaurants, cigar lounge and bar. Reservations are recommended. An excellent buffet breakfast is included in the room rate.
- Free WiFi throughout.
- Luggage storage.
- Hair dryer.
- Guests can enjoy the rooftop wood-fired ‘hot pot’ hot tub with a complimentary reservation.
- Self-serve espresso machine in the Löwen lobby.
