If you’re unfamiliar with Moldova, don’t worry – even the most experienced and independent travellers have missed this Eastern European nation sandwiched between Romania and Ukraine. Though small (about the size of Belgium with a population of approximately 4 million), Moldova is among the world’s top 20 wine-producing countries pushing out 400 million litres of it yearly. Today, close to 25% of the country’s population works in the industry. They’ve been producing wine for 3000 years however, the fully operating wineries have only been around since 1827. Voted #1 off-the-beaten-path destination by Lonely Planet, Moldova brimming with wineries, is home to the world’s largest cellar and wine collection.
The core of Moldova’s wine making region is situated at the same latitude as Bordeaux, France. Their cooler growing climate is similar to that of the grapevine-riddled countrysides found in Canada and New Zealand. Moldova is known for their Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir. Local varietals exclusive to Moldova; the fruity and floral (white) Fetească Albă, the plum and chocolate (red) Fetească Neagră and the vanilla and cherry (red) Rară Neagră. Queen Elizabeth II has been known to drink Moldovian wine, having purchased it from Moldova’s winery, Purcari, on more than one occasion. Negra de Purcari from their 1990 vintage collection is her favourite.
Moldova’s capital, Chișinău, can be reached within 2-3 hours from major European hot spots like London, Vienna, and Milan. With origins dating back to 1420, Chișinău is lined with Soviet-era buildings, old-growth tree thicketed parks, sidewalk cafes, art markets and is home to 19th century Nativity Cathedral as well as the National Museum of History. One of Europe’s least visited countries, Moldova had been a part of Romania up until World War II and declared independence from the Soviet Union following its collapse in 1991.
Moldovan people are extremely hospitable and revel in hosting 3+ hour long dinners that involve dozens of mouth-watering dishes. Authentic food known to pair excellently with their wines especially are placinte (Plăcintă)– a thin phyllo pastry filled with cheese or cherries, or mămăligă – a cheesy polenta dish doused with garlic and cream sauce, and sarmale – stuffed cabbage leaves.
Holding more vines per capita than any other country, Moldova is serious about its production and exports 67 million bottles annually – which are in high demand.
The country has a host of wine-related events, ranging from cellar runs and music festivals to vineyard races and a National Wine Day celebration, on their annual event calendar. With such a dense culture of wine, we have curated a list of the most popular wineries to visit, ranging from small to large and family-owned to state-owned vineyards.
Moldova’s Most Popular Wineries
Château Purcari
Purcari is the oldest winery in Moldova and it has been in business since 1827. Their wines have been served to King George V, and Queen Victoria of Great Britain.
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Cricova Winery
Cricova is the biggest and one of the most impressive wine cellars from Europe with some 120 kilometers of underground wine storage. Well known for their sparkling wine, Cricova has been open since 1952. The Cricova cellars host a remarkable wine collection, Oenotheque, which came into existence in 1954. The collection numbers almost 1.3 million bottles of wine; each one of them has exceptional qualities and an unusual history.
Asconi Winery
Being founded in 1994, Asconi Winery is a great example of keeping the original Moldavian traditions, using the best available technologies. Until now, the winery remains a family business without any government support, making their own wine in a very traditional way.
In 2019, the winery opened its first hotel with 12 houses, decorated outside and inside in the traditional Moldavian style, with 20 rooms.
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Milestii Mici Winery
Milestii Mici Winery – holds two Guinness World Records for their underground limestone wine galleries covering over 200kms. They house 1.5 million bottles of wine stored at a depth of 80 metres.
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WHERE TO STAY
Berd’s Design Hotel
Berd’s Design Hotel – this 5-star hotel was designed by Italian architect, Luca Scacchetti, and is the epitome of luxury and comfort. Berd’s features a spa, a gorgeous terrace, exquisite artwork, and 33 suites each with a pillow menu, mini-bar, and brand-name toiletries.
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Nobil Luxury Boutique Hotel
Nobil Luxury Boutique Hotel – rightfully 5 stars, this elegant establishment has 40 rooms and suites and is adorned with chandeliers and marble floors. Nobil features a spa with Turkish baths, a gym, a beauty salon, a rooftop terrace, and a 7th floor restaurant with panoramic views.
WHAT TO SEE
When you’re not wine tasting and touring Moldova’s fabulous old-world wineries
Old Orhei
Overlooking the Raut River, Old Orhei is a historical and archeological site featuring baths, caves, ruins, fortifications, and monasteries dating back to the Dacian tribes of 2000 years ago
Tipova Monastery
3 main complexes had been dug out of rock, with the first complex having been manually formed in the 11th century, Tipova Monastery can be found along the bank of the Dniester River. Close by there is a hiking path that leads to a waterfall and passes caves where monks still reside.
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