THE FIRST TIME I SAW THE ADRIATIC, I was a twentysomething backpacker travelling through Europe. It was that rite of passage, the dividing line between youth and adulthood.
After a dreary night crossing on an even drearier tanker-ferry from Brindisi, Italy, we arrived at sunrise in Corfu, Greece, where the Adriatic meets the Ionian Sea. The island looked splendid to my weary eyes, with glimmering pink sand and crystal-clear waters, reefs worth getting lost in. I couldn’t resist dipping a toe, and then some.
That was a lifetime ago, so when I was given the chance to revisit the Adriatic — this time the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia — I took it.
The Emerald Azzurra, a 110-metre luxury yacht, carries 100 passengers with 72 crew. Chill on the Sky Bar, soak in the Aqua Pool, or unwind in the Observation Lounge — luxury doesn’t have to cost a superstar fortune. Photo: Emerald Cruises
But first things first. I’m not backpacking, but sailing aboard Azzurra, Emerald Cruises’ luxury yacht. Yes, at 110 metres long, it looks like it could be part of a rock star’s fleet but, no, you don’t need a superstar’s bank account to sail on it. That said, there is an air of exclusivity. Azzurra carries 100 passengers, with a friendly, international crew of 72. There are plenty of chill spaces for solace, such as the Sky Bar on the top deck with its bar, hot tub and sunbeds; the Aqua Pool deck and its quaint café; and the Observation Lounge at the bow of the ship (where I spent quiet mornings sipping cappuccino with a book and the view). The cabins are spacious for two, bathrooms included (the Missoni Home towels and robes don’t hurt either). Better still, its sleek profile allows it to dock at smaller ports that big cruise ships can’t — yet it’s stable enough to traverse the Mediterranean, Red, Arabian and Adriatic seas.
The Aqua Pool on the Emerald Azzurra — loungers, shade, and café treats with a view.
We start in Dubrovnik, and immediately there’s an air of familiarity. The city played King’s Landing in Game of Thrones, and it’s just as stunning in real life, no filter required. It glows hot in the evening sun and, in that moment, it’s not hard to imagine Jon Snow storming the gates while Daenerys torches it all from dragon-back. As I walk alone within the Old Town walls (a UNESCO World Heritage site), I’m picking up the local tongue. It’s a rough Slavic-Latin hybrid of which I understand every fourth word (one of the languages my parents speak at home is a Slavic Macedonian dialect akin to Bulgarian, similarly spoken in North Macedonia).
Dubrovnik’s city walls — over 500 years old and the real-life backdrop for King’s Landing in Game of Thrones. Photo: @nikolaskojevic/Unplash
At a glance, Dalmatia has much in common with northern Italy: seafood and pasta are staples, more than my plant-forward Mediterranean and Balkan diet, and the architecture — Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance — is everywhere. Red clay tiles cover the rooftops of the island towns, lending a Venetian-inspired continuity but also a bit of déjà vu. And Croatians are a no-nonsense, proud, forward lot, perhaps still feeling the growing pains of a suddenly popular tourist destination, thanks in part to the legions of GoT fans.
Did you know? Diocletian’s 1,700-year-old palace is now Split’s Old Town. 📸 @vladfran.croatia
I find myself alone once more, in Split, in the bowels of the Roman Emperor Diocletian’s Palace. The room is all stone walls, arches and columns, and it hums with familiarity again. It’s here that Daenerys kept her dragons before her march to Westeros. Yet it’s not the fiery breath of beasts that fills the air, but song. Coming from an adjacent chamber, a half-dozen men dressed in white with stark red sashes around their waists are harmonizing a cappella for a small crowd. Known here as Klapa music, its roots are in the church. I barely catch a word — mother, love, heart — but as the singers move from song to song, their expressions do the translating: sadness, devotion, romance.
I return to the ship and to the sea. We arrive at Hvar’s harbour, but even the petite Azzurra has to weigh anchor offshore of the island’s shallow dock. Instead, the ship’s private tender speeds guests back and forth to town. But who needs to go ashore? The marina platform, which gives direct access to the sea at the ship’s stern, is open. Swimming and kayaking? 007-esque sea scooters or a floating trampoline? The Adriatic beckons once more. This time, I dip a toe and dive in.
About the Author: Vivian Vassos, BOLD Traveller‘s editor in chief, was awarded Croatia’s Golden Pen 2025 for Canada in the print category for this story. She attended the awards ceremony and accepted the prize on behalf of BOLD Traveller in Istria, Croatia, earlier this year.
Author Vivian Vassos
WHEN YOU GO, BOOK:
HIDDEN GEMS OF THE CROATIAN RIVIERA
NUMBER OF DAYS: 8 Days
CODE: E03D
DEPARTURE: 18 JULY 2026
HIDDEN GEMS OF THE CROATIAN RIVIERA. DEPARTURE: 18 JULY 2026
Experience the stunning beauty of Croatia’s Adriatic Coast, on this 8-day cruise that set sails from the historic port city of Dubrovnik. On this memorable journey, visit ancient sites, architectural wonders and pretty beaches and coves. Marvel as you witness the splendour of Dubrovnik’s Old Town, stroll up Marjan Hill for panoramic views of Split and discover Piran, the most picturesque town on the Slovenian coast. Your luxury cruise concludes in Italy and the ‘City of Canals,’ Venice, captivating visitors for centuries with its winding canals, romantic bridges, and refined Venetian culture.
